The allure of the Scotch egg escapes me. (It’s an egg thing, let’s not go there.) And yet the idea of some thoughtfully seasoned meat, stuffed with something interesting, then coated in breadcrumbs and fried until crisp, sounds too good to be missed.
So this week we have been busy stuffing sausagemeat and coarsely minced chicken with all manner of good things, the best being a cheese filling that oozed from a shell of herbed chicken meat just as the crust was broken, and a soft apple filling that worked brilliantly within a casing of black pudding – a take on the butter-fried apple rings I normally tuck underneath pieces of grilled black pudding.
As these are eggs in name and shape only, I have taken something of a liberty here, but the idea of one good thing hidden inside another can go by many names. Any thick purée of fruit could work tucked into of a lump of minced pork, lamb or chicken. A coarse mash of stewed cranberries for filling a minced turkey sausage; chopped cooked mushrooms mixed with a little crème fraîche at the heart of a minced chicken croquette; creamed feta inside a case of minced lamb, maybe. All are worth a try.
Hidden treasure is all well and good, but we have to get it in there first. The easiest way is to take a piece of minced meat in your hand and press it out into a thick patty. Push a deep hollow in the centre then add your filling. Bring the meat around the filling and press the edges firmly to seal. Roll in the palm of your hands before chilling, coating with crumbs and frying.
Black pudding and apple ‘Scotch eggs’
A fairly soft black pudding is needed here, but not as soft as most Spanish morcilla. If yours is on the dry side, then mix half and half with meat from a breakfast sausage. Fine white breadcrumbs will work if you can’t find the light, Japanese panko variety.
Makes 4
dessert apple 1, large
black pudding 300g
for the crust:
eggs 2
panko breadcrumbs 100g
oil about a litre, for deep frying
Peel and core the apple, then roughly chop it. Put the apple into a small saucepan with a couple of tablespoons of water and place over a moderate heat. Leave to cook, covered by a lid, for 10 minutes or so, stirring regularly, until the fruit is soft enough to crush.
Remove the pan from the heat and crush the apple to a stiff mash using a fork, then set aside and leave to cool.
Peel away the skin from the black pudding and crumble the filling into a mixing bowl. Divide the mixture into four, then roll each into a ball. One at a time, press the balls into a flat patty shape, pushing a deep hollow in the centre. Place a spoonful of the cooled apple into the hollow then carefully shape the meat around the apple and roll into a ball again. Repeat with the rest of the mixture, then chill for 30 minutes.
Break the eggs into a dish and lightly beat them. Scatter the breadcrumbs over a shallow dish or plate. Roll each black-pudding ball first in the beaten eggs then the crumbs. (I sometimes repeat the process to make sure they are well coated in crumbs.)
Warm the oil in a deep pan, leaving plenty of room for it to bubble up without boiling over. Lower the “eggs” into the oil and let them cook for 5 to 6 minutes or so, until the crust is gold and the black pudding is cooked through. Drain briefly on kitchen paper before eating.
Chicken croquettes
Use any good, melting cheese for this. I used comté, but any firm, cheese you can grate would be fine. Goat’s cheese may become a little grainy.
chicken 400g, minced
tarragon leaves 1 tbsp
thyme 2 tbsp
comté or other firm cheese, 100g
for the crust:
eggs 2
panko breadcrumbs 100g
Put the minced chicken in a mixing bowl and season generously with salt and black pepper. Chop the tarragon and thyme leaves, add to the chicken and mix briefly but thoroughly. Over-mixing will result in a gluey texture.
Coarsely grate the cheese. Divide the seasoned, minced chicken into four, then shape each into a small, thick patty that will fit in the palm of your hand. Make a hollow in the centre of each, then push a wad of grated cheese into it. Close the meat around the lump of cheese, then press firmly to seal. A wet thumb is helpful. Roll the mixture into a ball. Repeat with the remaining chicken mixture and cheese. Chill the croquettes in the fridge for 30 minutes.
Break the eggs into a dish and beat them lightly. Scatter the breadcrumbs over the surface of a shallow dish or plate. Roll each chicken ball first in the egg then the crumbs. Now repeat the egg and crumb step. It will keep the cheese in, and give a crisp shell.
Warm the oil in a deep pan, leaving room for the oil to bubble up when you lower the eggs in. Using a draining spoon place the crumbed “eggs” into the oil and let them cook for 5 to 6 minutes or so. Test one by cutting into it and gently prizing apart. The sausagemeat should be cooked right the way through, but still be juicy throughout.
Remove the croquettes from the oil and place them on a piece of kitchen paper for a minute to drain before serving.
Email Nigel at nigel.slater@observer.co.uk. Follow Nigel on Twitter @NigelSlater
